Located in one of Delhi’s go-to luxury shopping havens, DLF Emporio, there’s no denying that Set’z is a dining hotspot. Its seven international kitchens, large space with a terrace, private dining, and a bar serve diverse occasions and moods. Completing a decade this year, the restaurant is now looking to match its number of kitchens to 10 as well. While they’ll have all 10 running by mid-year, the first new member is already here — Iranian cuisine. Adding to their North Indian, Japanese, Arabic, Thai, Coastal, Chinese, and European fare is Chef Feridoun Sohrabi Shahsavar, who brings his expertise in Iranian food and years of experience across the Middle East to tables here.
Sticking to the traditional, the concise menu is heavily influenced by meats. Kebabs and grills dominate, and are punctuated by soups, stews, and salads. What you’ll find are signature Iranian dishes with characteristic flavours of saffron, nuts, lime, and turmeric. And similar to the Indian concept of veggies or meats with a side of carbs, these come with either bread or rice as accompaniments. The Mix Kebab platter has lamb chops, chicken cutlets, and minced lamb cutlets. The lamb preparations are succulent, with minimal flavouring and the meat flavour coming through. The chicken, with a hint of turmeric, makes for an earthy bite but could be more tender. The three different kinds of rice add flavour and break monotony of too much meat, with hints of saffron and tomato.
The Maygo Polo comes with pan-fried prawns on top of a rice hill, mixed with bell peppers, onions, and tomatoes. The prawns are juicy and tender, carrying the same flavours as the rice, making for a comfort, tangy dish. The vegetarian Ash Reshteh is an Iranian noodle soup, and a comforting concoction of kidney beans, chickpeas, herbs, and noodles. The nutty and buttery beans add richness to it, and the dollop of cream on top makes it the perfect winter broth. The Kashko Bademjan is fried, mashed eggplant with sun-dried yoghurt and mint sauce. Traditionally had as an appetiser or a dip, its converted into a main by the addition of mashed potatoes and fresh-off-the-oven paos. The garlic and onion flavouring with mashed eggplant panders to the Indian palate, and is a must-have, especially for vegetarians.
The dessert, Poreghal, moves away from what we typically know as a sweet last course. Fresh orange slices topped with strawberry compote, pomegranate seed, and sprinkled with rosewater, it’s a balance of sweet and citrus. The light dessert is meant to cool down the body after the hearty Iranian fare, and leaves you refreshed instead of sluggish after a full meal.
If you like your meats to carry their original flavour, this menu is for you. The accompaniments do offer to spice up the tastes, and though only one main dish is vegetarian, the herbivores need not worry as the meatless fare is a winner. Done well, traditional Iranian flavours are presented simply yet expertly.
Where: 405, Third Floor, DLF Emporio, Nelson Mandela Road, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi
Opening hours: From 12 pm-12 am, all days
Recommended dishes: Ash Reshteh
Price: INR 3,500 for two, without alcohol
Noise level: Medium
Video: Pranav Bhasin
All images: Courtesy Set’z